Softer, lighter and looser tailored styles that blend relaxed comfort with the smartness of formal tailoring - that's the look we're putting together for summer.

We call it ‘soft tailoring’:  lighter weight, bespoke separates. Not quite so formal as suits, but extremely comfortable and just as elegant, everything stylishly finished with Peter Johnston’s trademark style – simple, unfussy and expertly cut using the highest quality materials.

A cashmere jacket essentially becomes a cardigan jacket but cut with lapels, a pronounced shoulder line and a waisted silhouette. The result is an informal but smart outfit that has a softer expression but retains its classic bespoke sensibility and elegance.

Soft tailoring is extremely lightweight, perfect for summer.  Fifty per cent of the weight of a formal suit is linings and trimmings. By half lining or quarter lining and editing some of the trimmings we can craft a garment that is lighter and softer in construction. Usually hidden from view, seams are then visible and must be perfectly finished.  It’s a painstaking process that requires a lightness of hand when sewing but the resulting jacket is soft and cool.

Equally important for bespoke summer wear is the choice of fabric. Fabrics particularly well suited to soft tailoring include lightweight cashmere, which offers luxurious softness while being pleasantly cool to wear and far better at keeping its shape than pure cottons or linens. Superfine Merino wool offers softness and natural breathability that keeps you cool in summer, while its remarkable natural elasticity makes it virtually crease-free and perfect for travelling. Mohair has a wonderfully characteristic sheen and offers even greater elasticity than merino wool. All silk fabrics are cool in summer. Blends of cashmere/linen/silk and cotton/silk retain the characteristics and texture of linen or cotton whilst improving the drape.

It’s as much about common sense as dress sense – practical, flattering and functional bespoke clothing, skillfully cut, luxurious fabrics which retain the elegant simplicity of bespoke tailoring in a more casual appearance.  The change is subtle but perfectly pitched for less formal summer occasions.

Book a tailoring appointment here ›› bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk.  

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Grey Nailhead: subtle surface interest and depth without being distracting. Worn with a white shirt, this suit will be perfect for the simple and elegant ‘only two colours’ style approach. A brilliant companion, it pretty much equals formality, functionality and flexibility, in just the right measures.

Recently commissioned by a loyal repeat customer, his pattern for a single-breasted jacket is pretty much cemented. The balance works well, the sleeves have been adjusted to just the right pitch and length, and small tweaks like the height of the waist button have been ironed out.

At this fitting stage of the bespoke suit process, inserting the canvas, tapes and paddings of the interlining is a delicate, exacting procedure; ensuring no adverse reaction between suit cloth and interlinings is in itself complicated.

The hand sewn body canvas is available in numerous grades, selected by assessing the weight of the cloth together with the preferred finished feel and appearance. A small pad is added to lend shape to the shoulders and help define and smooth the shoulder-line, a generous inlay is allowed and long white baste stitches hold everything together. 

The trick of ordering bespoke tailoring ahead of when you actually wish to wear it is a fine art, one this customer has mastered. This is a fine spring suit – well, it will be! 

e: bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk

Are you thinking about sunnier skies? Me too.  Happily, the big Easter get-away is just around the corner and warmer spring days are not that far away either. Anyone who has ever sweltered through a warm day in a suffocating heavier weight suit jacket knows that a little planning ahead goes a long way to achieving the luxurious style of a modern global traveller.

In the heat, the cool business option is often a suit, providing the suit is made from light-gauge, breathable fabrics such as merino wool, tropical wool, mohair, linen or poplin. The ideal thread count for spring summer cloth is 130-140; the ideal weight 240-280g. Get the weight and the colour right, and despite the heat, spring suits can be both elegant and practical.

Classic appeal is always elegant and refined, which is why, whatever the season, we champion the navy or grey suit. A simple two colour outfit, navy and white or grey and white, is a clean, mature and well put together look without any unnecessary distractions. For a fresh spring look, try replacing dark charcoal with a lighter grey spring-appropriate fabric and select a lightweight navy herringbone for subtle interest by way of texture. Fully lined, half lined or unlined, in the right fabric, this suit jacket can be extremely versatile. 

More reading - 

Navy Herringbone – The Suit Wardrobe,   The Navy Suit,   Why Summer Prep Starts Now

Golfers understand that producing a good score card necessitates investing in the best equipment and to play a good game the clothing needs to be up to the job whilst still looking stylish and appropriate. The ancient traditions of golf (and club rules) normally inspire such respect that the clothes worn on the golf course may be more casual but always elegant. 

Peter Johnston's personal world and experiences influence much of our product line. As a Scot and avid golfer he has now introduced a tailoring collection for fellow golfers, made to the same exacting standards as our bespoke business and formal wear tailoring. Golf course trousers are multi-functioning and are therefore different to a regular bespoke trouser. For example, our golf trouser has deeper pockets and can be made with dual front pockets to separate ball markers and tees. This and other clever styling options create unique and personalized golf wear made in fine wools, cashmeres and cottons. 

When dressing for a summer wedding take your lead from the invitation: time of day, venue and any suggested dress code. 

The most formal invites should state if morning dress is required, but if it's at all ambiguous ask your hosts for some clarity. Assuming that a day suit is acceptable, then consider the time of day and venue. A trim well-cut two-piece suit in a dark shade will fit most invitations including those in the evening. Lighten the look with a light shirt, white or pastel, and coordinating coloured tie. The key to success with this is to focus on only one colour or one jolt of colour. That way, you will make a subtle statement that won't distract from your impeccable tailoring. 

In a warm climate or you need your tailoring to be a little more casual, then linen or cotton chino will work well. Both travel well, are lightweight and exude an air of casual chic. Try a three-piece suit in hot climates too, it may sound like a contradiction but you'll still look smart wearing a tailored waistcoat after you've removed your jacket in the heat. Make sure that your linen or cotton tailoring is cut in a modern slim line silhouette. Ill-fitting tailoring is a no-no. 

More than one summer wedding invite? Simply change the shirt and tie ensemble, keep a few combinations in reserve for last minute decision making. 

SEE TIES

TAILORING APPOINTMENT

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Classic chocolate brown suede chukka boots that exemplify light weight, versatile spring style. Unlined, these boots are softer and lighter than their winter cousins. It's like the difference between wearing your winter bespoke jackets and your unlined cardigan jackets for spring summer: softer, lighter and unbelievably comfortable for the season. Originally adopted by polo players who required its characteristic combination of support and agility, the chukka has become our favourite boot for everyday spring wear. With its leather sole, which incidentally has the advantage of absorbing moisture during the day, the chukka ticks all the right boxes for both a relaxed yet slightly formal feel and true weekend casual. 

>MORE INFO ONLINE

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Summer style is more than pure appearance, we think it's a hard-to-define yet easy-to-recognize aura of distinction. Good tailoring is the result of choices - clothes that fit in all the right places, clothes to suit the occasion, clothes to suit the individual and clothes to suit the season.

A difficult rule to adhere to, but worth undertaking, is to order your seasonal bespoke clothes when you think you least need them! To avoid taking delivery of your linen suit or cotton trousers at the end of summer just as the sun goes in, here's our timely suggestions for adjusting your summer wardrobe.

We'll make this easy, to guide not to govern; it's about lightweight cloth and styling.

Fabric selection is an effective way to change to spring/summer clothes, for example linen is good for suiting and odd jackets cut in a soft-tailored silhouette or try a cheeky micro Prince of Wales Check woven in a finest wool and silk blend for more formal occasions. Both look great in a summer weight 7 to 10 ounces (winter is usually 11 to 14) and suggest easy stylish elegance. With regards to styling, it's not about quantity but quality, here's a list of five suggestions for summer "staples" and 'must-haves":

1. A grey or navy lightweight suit in mohair

Mohair, when blended with worsted wool results in a lustrous and durable summer suiting. Durable - mohair is the most durable of all animal fibres. Lustrous - mohair fibres benefit from a natural lustre that makes clothes look impeccable. Also has a natural stretch and is resistant to creasing. 

2. A not-for-the-office suit

Ideal for summer invites and weddings. Something a little bolder (but wearable) in cotton. Perfect for crossover into casual weekends as the jacket can be worn with jeans or chinos.

3. A lightweight blazer in navy

Classic or patch pockets, hopsack or cashmere - the beauty of the blazer is that it goes with nearly anything and looks good in any situation.

4. Trousers in both linen and cotton.

Well-cut and a good fit, these will be the best looking cotton chinos you've owned. For smarter occasions try linen. Quality well cut trousers are all about lines; straight lines hanging from the waist (no baggy knees). Both are ideal teamed with a lightweight navy blazer. 

5. Slip on lightweight slipper shoes

Personalized in suede, linen or tartan. Unashamedly inspired by the Duke of Windsor these shoes originated from English aristocracy. Try them with your blazer and linen trousers - navy double-breasted blazer, cream trousers, blue spread collar shirt and black personalized monogrammed slippers. 

bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk

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It's easy to re-interpret traditional tweeds to look city-slick through skilful cutting and styling. The natural shades of browns, greens and greys, in all their rich tones, can exude sophistication when worn as well-cut tailoring. Matching heritage cloth with craftsmanship and modern shapes can give you an anytime,anywhere look that is both timeless and contemporary. 

So, there is good reason to be wearing tweed this spring. Having evolved from something for country pursuits due to its weather-resistant qualities, tweed is now a good choice for mid-season round-town dressing too. Start by having your bespoke tweed jacket or suit cut in a sharp and slim line silhouette (incidentally, properly sized clothes can literally help you shed weight visually) using a lightweight softer tweed spun with wool flannel or cashmere. 25% lighter and spun from finer yarns, the new tweeds are smoother to touch than the classics.

For spring select soft shades of light greys and light browns or tan in plaids or herringbones. Typically a Harris Tweed yarn can contain seven or eight different colours blended together that create a unique richness. Breanish Tweed, hand woven in the Outer Hebrides is the finest of lightweight tweeds and offer a 50/50 blend shetland/cashmere or perhaps look at Teviot tweed from another stand-out Scottish mill, Lovat Mill in Roxburghshire.

Breanish Tweed is a fourth generation family run business based on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, Scotland. The talented Mr. Iain Finlay Macleod heads up the operation and comes from a family with a long weaving tradition, in fact both his parents are still involved in making Breanish Tweed. Iain popped in to see us at our Edinburgh showrooms just recently to deliver some new cloth bunches in between his visits to other customers as far and wide as New York, Vienna and Tokyo and his other job as an award winning creative writer for television and theatre. 

Oscar Wilde once said "Conversation about the weather is the last refuge of the unimaginative." but its still pretty cold so you'll forgive us for acknowledging that in the UK (particularly here in Scotland where snow fell on the Lothians on May 11th last year!) the first few months of the year are a changeover and it won't be balmy for a while yet. If you don't want to resort to a coat in spring, tweed can be a perfect solution and especially for those who prefer to dress up a bit rather than down.

Understated, versatile and easy-to-wear (so says Peter, and he's usually spot-on), tweed is equally fitting for odd jackets and suits. Team your tweed jacket with casual-bespoke chinos or flannel trousers and both are good paired with a shirt which is shades lighter or darker to keep things coordinated, or simple white to look fresh and stylish.

Our choice - a muted plaid three-piece suit worn with a simple plain white shirt and brogues or boots such as Crockett & Jones Clifford or Chukka.

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Freshen up a winter wool suit or jacket with a little flair by adding a pocket square. It's spring, you've discarded your overcoat and it's all on show again so it's a good time to add a splash of individuality. You can't beat crisp white linen (in our opinion) and when folded 'square' as the man himself would, it's very Cary Grant. If you prefer colour, then with a pocket square the trick is not to match too closely to your tie but to go for shades lighter or darker that harmonize. As a beacon of classic good taste, like the subtle hand-stitched finishes on your bespoke tailoring a good quality pocket square always has rolled edges. The hand-rolling is an important detail as the handkerchief is folded to reveal its edges and points. There are many ways to fold including the square end, the multi-point, the crushed and the puffed but we would advise to only use the simplest of folds with linen. We suggest finding one you like and sticking with it - like most things in life. 

• Crisp white linen always works, fold it 'square'
• Patterned pocket squares should sit with plain ties
• Don't match pocket square and tie exactly, harmonize with shades darker or lighter
• Beacon of good taste and top quality - hand-rolled edges