Think Autumn and we are shifting from shorts to shirts again. There's a chill in the air so it's time to turn our attentions to our winter clothing. The significance of winter wardrobe planning now is to ensure that all the essentials (and luxuries) are in place meaning we can concentrate on other things again. Job done.
Business-wise, we recommend getting smarter. Well-cut bespoke tailoring is a constant for more formal environments and more casually we are wearing flannels and really soft unstructured tailored jackets or cashmere knitwear.
Every well-dressed man, in our opinion, should own these five luxurious iconic items for successful autumn winter wardrobing: 1. Bespoke overcoat, 2. Cullinan 300's bespoke shirt, 3. Bespoke cardigan-jacket 4. Bespoke flannel trousers 5. Custom knit Scottish cashmere shawl-collar cardigan.
Casual, semi-formal and formal, all covered. With a good eye for colour combinations (Peter can help) and layering you can achieve the perfect balance between performance and luxury. Dress for the weekend, dress for work and dress for in-between. It's a stylish and subtly luxurious Look, typical of Peter Johnston, and we think the motto of "knowing, not showing" sums it up perfectly.
To accomplish the Art of less formal dressing we suggest a palette of neutrals e.g. navy, dark greys and blacks with richly textured combinations of knitted and woven cashmeres, soft flannels in wool/cashmere blends and the finest cotton shirting in the world to suggest luxurious comfort and subtle restraint.
BESPOKE OVERCOAT : CASHMERE
Warmth, fit and image - throughout winter your overcoat is likely to be the first and last thing a person notices about you. Your well-crafted tailoring deserves a quality finishing touch, sorry to say but any old rain mac will just not do. Your overcoat will proclaim the style of clothing concealed beneath.
Nothing beats the drape of soft, light cashmere. A pure cashmere coat is light yet remarkably warm. Aside from its softness, a key advantage of cashmere is that it is insulating, so you get warmth in a light weight and it allows for good movement too.
Not all cashmeres are equal and quality is a contributing factor to the price tag. The world-renowned Loro Piana cashmere is undoubtedly among the very finest, harvested only once a year and only the best is bought. It's the cashmere fibres taken from the throat and underbelly of a goat that tend to be the most expensive, as these fibres are long and substantial in order to keep the goat's vital organs warm. The Loro Piana most precious, softest and finest cashmere fibres come from the underfleace, it's an undercoat beneath the discarded longer and rougher outer hairs.
Go with a dark grey or navy, solid or herringbone, and stick with a simple single-breasted fly front or double breasted six show 2; a classic, well cut, warm, tailored finish. The secret of looking refined is the softness of the Cashmere fibres finely spun into the warmest cloth with the distinctive 'velvet' Cashmere sheen.
BESPOKE SHIRT : BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
The shirt can be seen as simply existing to be functional but it is (in most cases) the garment you wear closest to your upper-body skin and the shirt collar provides the focal point for your face.
Cullinan cotton (read more about Cullinan) is a superluxe product for connoisseurs using 300's count threads. The exceptional fineness of these yarns, the finest in the world, allow for the production of shirting cloth with an extraordinary handle.
A need. Or a pleasure. Either way, your bespoke shirts are made entirely to your specifications. To create a more relaxed look whilst retaining a premium feel and appearance select Cullinan cotton and team this with a button-down collar. The resulting shirt will be one which is light, luxurious and with an appearance of dressed down approachability. A button-down collar is versatile and has the personality of being purposefully laid-back.
BESPOKE CARDIGAN-JACKET : CASHMERE WISH
Casual and semi-formal business situations require comfortable, classic, stylish and subtly luxurious clothes; enter the Cardigan Jacket. Still tailored but made with Loro Piana's unique 'Cashmere Wish' this jacket is one that you just don't need to think about. Throw it on and you're off.
It's a softer look than your business tailoring, no rope sleeve head , like your formal jackets and with a more relaxed shirtsleeve. Add to this the weight and design of the cloth, Cashmere Wish and you have an elegant, luxurious, go anywhere jacket with a more informal feel about it.
Cashmere Wish from Loro Piana has the look and feel of a knit-effect, is light and has a softness comparable to pure cashmere. Made from combining cashmere double twisted threads (85%) with the finest wool available, Super 170's merino wool threads (15%), gives a high performance soft fabric which will mould to the body overtime. The lighter weight of this cloth makes it extremely versatile allowing you to wear this almost cardigan-like jacket directly over your Cullinan shirt or when there's an Autumnal chill in the air, with an additional cashmere sweater and scarf for practicality and style.
This jacket is perfectly placed to answer the 'smart casual' brief, elegant and practical it combines classiness with the comfort of a cardigan.
BESPOKE TROUSER : SUPER 160'S & CASHMERE FLANNEL
The grey flannel trouser is the blue blazer of cool-weather trousers; legendary, completely relevant and is one of our favourite classic Looks. Perfect for business-casual or weekend-casual they project comfort and quality.
This trouser is perfect companion for any type of jacket but teamed here with a Cullinan 300's shirt and a Cashmere Wish cardigan-jacket or cashmere millionaire cardigan the flannel will lend classic style and a skill full mix of textures to your outfit. Since late 1920's, grey flannel has been popular for odd trousers, described as the 'trouser of trousers' it is virtually unlimited in its versatility. It can be both formal and casual, elegant and sporty.
Flannel cloth is smooth and soft, the result of a special manufacturing procedure that felts the wool giving it a distinctive surface. Loro Piana have added a touch of luxury to their Super 160's flannel by creating a masterly blend of merino wool and cashmere resulting in fabrics that are soft to touch and have good drape.
To dress more casually and still look self-assured, stylish and comfortable ensure your flannel trouser is made of good quality cloth, good workmanship and is a good fit. Trousers that are made to fit you will hang straight and are constructed from cloth that is generally two to five ounces heavier than any ready-to-wear casual product which makes them hang better and appear both smarter and more dapper.
CUSTOM KNIT : SCOTTISH CASHMERE 'MILLIONAIRE' CARDIGAN
A pure cashmere chunky-knit cardigan is another wardrobe must-have, a great alternative to a jacket.
Wear it with a Cullinan button-down collar shirt and flannel trousers for a look which is smart in a relaxed way. It's a good stylistic twist for a more informal day or weekend wear and because it has the unique softness and lightweight warmth of pure cashmere it will not only keep you perfectly warm in transitional winter weather it will look polished and pulled-together.
Made from pure Scottish Todd & Duncan cashmere, each 12 ply cardigan is custom made in your colour choice, with or without pockets. We suggest choosing a neutral colour, say black, navy or grey for maximum versatility and a classy Fred Astaire-type style or select a brighter colour to create a bit of energy for a more modern look.
This button-front chunky-knit cashmere cardigan with pockets can serve you as an alternative to your odd jacket, particularly in black or navy and it is the fastest way to garner an instant dressed-up look of luxurious comfort without having to dress-up at all. Knowing how many buttons to fasten is a key factor in making this Look most stylish; fasten your top buttons, leaving the last one, or two, unfastened.