A beautifully tailored suit, an impeccably cut shirt and the finest handmade shoes. Together, they send an unmistakeable message – of assurance, style and taste. But the look is incomplete, the message blurred, unless careful attention is paid to the fine details. It’s the ‘V area’ that people will focus on next – the collar, the lapel and in particular the tie. Only the right tie will speak true – of elegance, panache and flair.
The signs of quality
As with any part of the gentleman’s outfit, it’s best to keep it simple and allow quality to show through: it’s important to invest in a good quality pure silk tie for its suppleness, strength, depth of colour, and drape. There’s a lot of science to ties, but most important is that it should feel right. Pick it up and feel it before you buy it, crumple the silk carefully – does it spring back? Your first impression is your best guide.
While there are a number of things which distinguish a high quality tie, the most important is probably the quality of the silk. The process of producing silk is time- and labour intensive (once the silkworms have spun their cocoons the threads need to be unwound with the aid of special brushes, a complex and expensive process), and it’s very difficult for non specialists to tell the true quality of the silk used.
Peter Johnston ties are made from an exclusive “350 End” silk quality. There are 350 warp threads every inch, with each warp thread actually 2 threads twisted together to give improved strength, weight, texture and fall. This gives a lustrous finish and a special, almost audible, ’crunch’ to the silk. All our silk fabric is ‘pure dye’, meaning that no artificial additives have been added to the warp or weft yarn – the weight and lustre of the fabric is achieved simply by virtue of the yarn itself.
But while the choice of silk may be the first important test of quality, the precision of the cutting, the quality and cut of the lining and the accuracy of the stitching are also extremely important. The silk should be cut on a perfect 45 degree angle so that the interlining fabric isn’t visible. All Peter Johnston ties are cut in this way.
The interior construction of the tie determines whether the tie knots well, hangs straight and retains its shape. The thickness of the interlining affects the thickness of the knot, and a silk tie with quality wool interlining will feel classier, look better and last longer. The interlinings of Peter Johnston ties are made from 100% brushed wool, which provides the tie with body and elasticity ensuring that after wearing it will (if carefully rolled) spring back to its former shape.
And sewing anything by hand makes such a difference. Each Peter Johnston tie is painstakingly hand cut and sewn in the UK. We ensure that, for each tie, the weight of cloth is matched to the weight of interlining, and then assembled according to Peter Johnston's unique specification. We utilize the skill and experience of artisans who have been working in the tie making industry for decades, each tie made by one of three skilled seamstresses familiar with our particular make.
With ties, the slipstitch is the main seam and allows flexibility and movement along the tie. The stitch must catch the two sides of the tie and connect them to the interlining perfectly – never catching the front of the tie. It’s not easy. Like all high quality ties, Peter Johnston ties are made in three sections (less expensive ties are made up of only two). And the finest neckties – such as Peter Johnston ties – tuck the self-loops ends into the blades centre seam, anchoring it securely.
That’s a lot of science. The main thing to remember is that craftsmanship and finishing all matter for how your tie looks and feels. However good it is, technology will never replicate the human touch, and ties made with machines will never be more than pale imitations of their hand-made cousins. If you want to take three things away from this they are that a quality tie should be cut by hand at a 45 degree angle; that it should be made by hand in three pieces by skilled artisans; and that only the finest ties tuck the self loop ends into the blade’s centre seam. Peter Johnston ties pass all of those tests.
Plains, Stripes or Spots?
Your tie will set the tone for your entire image. But while it can and should be the centerpiece, it should contribute to the overall image, not stand in splendid isolation. In short, colour and design matters!
You won’t go wrong with a well-cut and tailored blue suit, a crisp white shirt and a subtle solid colour tie; you’ll look elegantly understated – someone who knows what they like. A navy blue tie can be worn on almost any occasion, with almost any shirt, suit or coat. There are four main components to the Peter Johnston navy blue selection: navy with white pin dots; navy with white polka dots; navy textured weave; and navy with ecru pinstripe. And there are twelve additional variations on stripe widths and spot sizes.
If you prefer to experiment you could try mixing similar patterns. Like-patterned garments such as a stripe shirt and a stripe tie combine effectively and subtly, provided the design size of each is as different from the other as possible. For example, where you choose to combine stripes make sure one item has close-set stripes the other wide. Subtle stripes and one colour dots look great with a plain shirt. Ultimately mixing patterns simply depends on your personal style – if in any doubt ask Peter for guidance.
The knotty issue
The type of knot you choose doesn’t matter so much as how well it’s tied. You should end up with a neat, taut, arched knot with a dimple underneath. A taut knot will stay in place and give the knot the spring it needs to arch out from the collar. Ideally, wedge your knot high into the collar ‘V’ and line up your dimple in the centre. If it’s a Peter Johnston tie , the woven silk’s slightly textured surface will help keep the knot in place.
Practice makes perfect but – you guessed it – a good quality tie will make the process easier and the end result far superior. If you’d like any advice, Peter would be delighted to help at your next tailoring appointment.
So…
We hope this has given you a few insights into the finest quality ties by Peter Johnston. Peter’s ties offer a statement of quality, taste and style: an understated exterior concealing the highest quality.