Want to cut a dash amongst the purists of black tie attire?  For some men the classic formula of black cummerbund or waistcoat with a dinner jacket hits just the right note of style and formality. For others, the simplicity and elegance of the black-and-white starkness offers scope for stylish individuality. 

The skill lies in adding a single flourish of pattern or highlight colour, to enrich the already dramatic high-contrast outfit. For the most assured Scots dressers amongst us, adding a tartan waistcoat is a stylish way to embrace a personal insignia. If you are intending to experiment with this idea, we suggest applying a simple rule of introducing colour with tonal richness such as scarlet wine, plum, and bottle green. Retaining an element of black through the pattern is best, as the waistcoat will be bordered by a black jacket and black bow tie. The result is an evening waistcoat that will add distinction whilst ensuring it remains part of the whole.  

This customer’s versatile tartan waistcoat is designed for wearing with both black tie and recently delivered tartan trews. Clan tartan, double breasted, hand sewn collar, bias cut with two welt pockets for loose change and tickets this dashing waistcoat will perfectly complement any Christmas invite.

 

Off to a seasonal soiree? Black tie occasions call for a time-honoured uniform of formality. If your suit has bespoke pedigree then in spite of the black tie outfit being highly formulaic, when worn correctly the simplicity and elegance of the black-and-white starkness and the simple combination of richly textured fabrics presents every man at his best.

Of course, there are options that add a touch of individuality; jacket style, collar style and whether to select blacker-than-black midnight blue or keep with black cloth. As long as you follow a few ground rules it is easy to know if you have all the correct components to present yourself at your debonair best.

THE DINNER JACKET

• Perfect for all occasions is either midnight blue or black barathea wool.
• Single breasted or double breasted, both are equally authentic and correct. It’s all about skilful cutting and resulting silhouette.
• Silk lapels – peaked or shawl. The shawl gives a softer look and the classic peak lapel helps give a physique sharper angles.
• Silk jetted pockets are trimmed to match the lapel silk facing.
• Silk turned back cuffs lend an old world touch of elegance.

THE DINNER SUIT TROUSER

• Barathea wool or wool/mohair mix to match the dinner jacket.
• One decorative single stripe of decorative braid or satin on the outer leg seam (did you know? tailcoat requires two stripes).
• Plain finish hem, never a turn-up.
• Skilfully cut with pleats and a longer than normal rise. Never cuffed. 
• Brace cut trousers have vertical lines that appear more defined and elongated with elegant proportions. 
• Clan tartan trews are a stylish alternative. 

THE DRESS SHIRT

• Bibbed front, either pleated or cotton Marcella pique. With tab to secure to trouser waistband eliminating billowing or ride-up under your waistcoat/cummerbund.
• Collar style is semi-spread, soft and turned down.  
• Double cuff. If you have a bibbed front shirt, your cuffs should be made in matching pique. 

THE BOW TIE

• Black satin or ribbed (grosgrain) silk to match the silk trimming on your dinner jacket. 
• Hand-tie bow tie , always.

THE CUMMERBUND

• Black satin or ribbed (grosgrain) silk to match silk trimming on your dinner jacket.
• Always required to be worn with single-breasted jackets to smooth over the edge of the shirt bib and hide the trouser waist. 
• Cummerbund folds point upwards, to hold evening event tickets.

THE BRACES

• Black moiré braces, always buttoned.  

THE CUFFLINKS

• We favour less ostentatious designs, but its personal choice. If you don’t own antique double-sided cufflinks, may we suggest our black spotted harlequin cufflinks – add some interest without distracting from the whole. 

THE HANDKERCHIEF

• White with hand rolled edges. 

THE SHOES

• Black velvet slipper shoe, with or without embroidered monogram.
• Leather Oxford lace up shoe with highly polished toecap.

We’ve put our guide together to help steer you to having all the right components in place but please do just get in touch if you have any questions. The formal wear black tie ensemble is designed to be regimented. It’s all about sophistication, cut and fit. Worn correctly, the simplicity of the outfit will ensure you an elegant look.  

If you would like some help and advice in making new tailoring choices, you can book your bespoke tailoring appointment here. 

To update your black tie accessories you can shop the essentials here.

Most of all – enjoy. 

All the best, Peter.