Softer, lighter and looser tailored styles that blend relaxed comfort with the smartness of formal tailoring - that's the look we're putting together for summer.

We call it ‘soft tailoring’:  lighter weight, bespoke separates. Not quite so formal as suits, but extremely comfortable and just as elegant, everything stylishly finished with Peter Johnston’s trademark style – simple, unfussy and expertly cut using the highest quality materials.

A cashmere jacket essentially becomes a cardigan jacket but cut with lapels, a pronounced shoulder line and a waisted silhouette. The result is an informal but smart outfit that has a softer expression but retains its classic bespoke sensibility and elegance.

Soft tailoring is extremely lightweight, perfect for summer.  Fifty per cent of the weight of a formal suit is linings and trimmings. By half lining or quarter lining and editing some of the trimmings we can craft a garment that is lighter and softer in construction. Usually hidden from view, seams are then visible and must be perfectly finished.  It’s a painstaking process that requires a lightness of hand when sewing but the resulting jacket is soft and cool.

Equally important for bespoke summer wear is the choice of fabric. Fabrics particularly well suited to soft tailoring include lightweight cashmere, which offers luxurious softness while being pleasantly cool to wear and far better at keeping its shape than pure cottons or linens. Superfine Merino wool offers softness and natural breathability that keeps you cool in summer, while its remarkable natural elasticity makes it virtually crease-free and perfect for travelling. Mohair has a wonderfully characteristic sheen and offers even greater elasticity than merino wool. All silk fabrics are cool in summer. Blends of cashmere/linen/silk and cotton/silk retain the characteristics and texture of linen or cotton whilst improving the drape.

It’s as much about common sense as dress sense – practical, flattering and functional bespoke clothing, skillfully cut, luxurious fabrics which retain the elegant simplicity of bespoke tailoring in a more casual appearance.  The change is subtle but perfectly pitched for less formal summer occasions.

Book a tailoring appointment here ›› bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk.  

Me, and the proud new owner of these trousers are suckers for Classic bespoke.  Two pleats: one becomes the front crease and the second lies midway between the first pleat and the pocket. 

Someone, somewhere at sometime told us that flat front trousers were the only way forward. There is no right or wrong and certainly, I think flat fronts look fantastic when it comes to modern, minimal slim-line bespoke suits.  

And then there are other instances when comfort and elegance are de-rigueur...Introducing the classic British pleat.

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Prince Charles may be a fan, but are you? Celebrity endorsements don’t get much greater than HRH and it seems that a growing number of clients too are appreciating the elegance of the double-breasted jacket. 

Bespoke is all about the fit of course, rather than any superfluous details. Whilst being respectful to bespoke tailoring traditions, we think the most modern and flattering DB has a slim cut and fit, just skimming the body. As always, the cut is very important and like good car design its success lies in structure and lines. 

More versatile than you may realize and inherently formal, the trick is, which DB is for you?

Almost anyone can wear a double-breasted jacket when it’s expertly cut. Taller men can wear a six-button style elegantly, that on a shorter figure can give too much weight to the top half. If six buttons overwhelms you, which it will on a shorter torso, then select a four-button jacket. A common misconception is that more portly gentlemen shouldn’t wear double-breasted jackets when in fact; it can have slimming and lengthening effect. We would suggest trying a 6x2 or a 4x2 button configuration. We wouldn't recommend a 4x1 as this can magnify any weight around the midsection.

What do we mean by 6x2 or 4x2? A traditional double-breasted style has two vertical rows of buttons, one column of buttons is decorative and the other is functional. 6x2 refers to a total of six visible buttons when two buttons close the jacket. Benefits: First, plenty of lines and buttons can have a slimming effect by distracting from the girth within. Second, by closing only the bottom button, you can achieve a longer line through the lapel, cutting diagonally across the body making shorter men appear taller. Third, taller men can benefit by closing only the middle button to break up the length of the body. 

Tailored in a solid flannel, soft tweed or solid wool hopsack it’s the ultimate suit jacket for just about any occasion. Brilliantly versatile, the double-breasted jacket can be both On and Off-Duty with either formal trousers or weekend jeans.

Curiously, in the studio this week we’ve been discussing the ‘modern’ DB and then agreed that the finest example of a well-cut, perfectly fit and timelessly elegant DB suit we have seen for a long time is this image of Noel Coward.  Other past style icons who have shown the DB off to glamorous effect are Cary Grant, the Duke of Windsor and Gary Cooper; all different shapes, heights and sizes.

Formal? – Yes. Elegant? – Yes. More versatile than you may think? – Yes. Are you tempted?

To order your tailoring, please contact:

bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk

+44 (0)131 225 4318

Suit fabrics can be made from woollen or worsted spun cloths or both combined. In an earlier post, The Woollen and the Worsted, our friend Carole from Harrisons of Edinburgh perfectly described the difference between the two; flat looking woollen cloths without any obvious twill and worsted spun cloths from longer, finer hairs that retain some visible signs of the twill. Neither is better than the other, but one will be more appropriate to your tastes or requirements. There are some classic suiting cloths that form the backbone of any tailored wardrobe to be always appropriate and offer unrivalled flexibility. Combine these with continual improvements in design and manufacture that deliver new cloths of unrivaled lightness, suppleness and performance, and you have more options than ever. Make your selections carefully, considering weight of cloth, pattern and styling. 

When did you last think someone look genuinely good in the clothes he was wearing? Whatever your age, but especially if you are in the post-forty bracket (join the club), there are some basic rules to follow, one of which is our favourite mantra – keep it simple. Cut down on fuss, buy better quality and appreciate good tailoring. Well-cut and perfectly fitted suits can be scarce, so if you wear one, you will stand out for all the right reasons. 

Few people really realise what goes into cutting their tailoring. It is complicated, precise and an art form that takes many years of training to learn and craft. A little insight can go a long way so here are a few facts.

The art of cutting is in pattern drafting, taking the cloth and using skilled cutting techniques to hand cut the cloth to the right shape. The focus is on accuracy but it is a skilled cutter who makes you a pattern to match your own body measurements and most important – your figuration. Totally personal to you is how you stand, for example do your shoulders slope or do you have prominent calves? An expert cutter and tailor can disguise limitations and delight by emphasising other characteristics. 

A precise and complicated process, it must be checked and checked again. To have some degree of accuracy, a cutter must be allowed time. It is an art, so a certain amount of flair should be allowed-for as a skilled cutter has an ‘eye’ for what is required creatively. 

It can take up to 200 separate pieces of cloth to make a suit and it can be 1 to 2 years before a trainee cutter is permitted to cut any cloth. On average, it takes 10 years before a cutter becomes a master cutter.

A well-cut touch of dignified classic restraint never looked so good. 

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Grey Nailhead: subtle surface interest and depth without being distracting. Worn with a white shirt, this suit will be perfect for the simple and elegant ‘only two colours’ style approach. A brilliant companion, it pretty much equals formality, functionality and flexibility, in just the right measures.

Recently commissioned by a loyal repeat customer, his pattern for a single-breasted jacket is pretty much cemented. The balance works well, the sleeves have been adjusted to just the right pitch and length, and small tweaks like the height of the waist button have been ironed out.

At this fitting stage of the bespoke suit process, inserting the canvas, tapes and paddings of the interlining is a delicate, exacting procedure; ensuring no adverse reaction between suit cloth and interlinings is in itself complicated.

The hand sewn body canvas is available in numerous grades, selected by assessing the weight of the cloth together with the preferred finished feel and appearance. A small pad is added to lend shape to the shoulders and help define and smooth the shoulder-line, a generous inlay is allowed and long white baste stitches hold everything together. 

The trick of ordering bespoke tailoring ahead of when you actually wish to wear it is a fine art, one this customer has mastered. This is a fine spring suit – well, it will be! 

e: bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk

Are you thinking about sunnier skies? Me too.  Happily, the big Easter get-away is just around the corner and warmer spring days are not that far away either. Anyone who has ever sweltered through a warm day in a suffocating heavier weight suit jacket knows that a little planning ahead goes a long way to achieving the luxurious style of a modern global traveller.

In the heat, the cool business option is often a suit, providing the suit is made from light-gauge, breathable fabrics such as merino wool, tropical wool, mohair, linen or poplin. The ideal thread count for spring summer cloth is 130-140; the ideal weight 240-280g. Get the weight and the colour right, and despite the heat, spring suits can be both elegant and practical.

Classic appeal is always elegant and refined, which is why, whatever the season, we champion the navy or grey suit. A simple two colour outfit, navy and white or grey and white, is a clean, mature and well put together look without any unnecessary distractions. For a fresh spring look, try replacing dark charcoal with a lighter grey spring-appropriate fabric and select a lightweight navy herringbone for subtle interest by way of texture. Fully lined, half lined or unlined, in the right fabric, this suit jacket can be extremely versatile. 

More reading - 

Navy Herringbone – The Suit Wardrobe,   The Navy Suit,   Why Summer Prep Starts Now

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A beautifully tailored velvet smoking jacket is the perfect alternative to the DJ. Paired with conventional dinner trousers or trews and fine shirt, a bespoke smoking jacket is both comfortable and undeniably elegant.

The concept of an elegant jacket for evening entertaining has never been lost on the purveyors of good quality clothing and far from making rare appearances for a special occasions, the smoking jacket is embraced as an alternative type of formalwear that imparts at-ease stylishness. 

Cut in classic dinner jacket styling, either single-breasted with shawl lapels and one-button closure, or double-breasted with one-, two- or three-button closure is traditional. Yet, as one would expect, a good bespoke smoking jacket will speak of your own personal style and taste. Shawl collar or peak lapels? Are they velvet or silk? The coat length? Braided loop closing? Lined in which colour and design?

Silk velvet is our cloth recommendation for bespoke smoking jackets; we have availability of some extraordinarily rich colours, notably deep midnight blue, and plush black.  Silk enhances the colour and comfort of velvet cloth by adding depth, lustre and softness.

Its origins lie in the noble tradition of gentlemen exchanging their jackets for one used exclusively for smoking, thus protecting their other clothes from residual tobacco odors. Today, the smoking jacket is the dependable choice for those wanting an alternative, subtly different evening jacket yet still with classic luxurious style.

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Want to cut a dash amongst the purists of black tie attire?  For some men the classic formula of black cummerbund or waistcoat with a dinner jacket hits just the right note of style and formality. For others, the simplicity and elegance of the black-and-white starkness offers scope for stylish individuality. 

The skill lies in adding a single flourish of pattern or highlight colour, to enrich the already dramatic high-contrast outfit. For the most assured Scots dressers amongst us, adding a tartan waistcoat is a stylish way to embrace a personal insignia. If you are intending to experiment with this idea, we suggest applying a simple rule of introducing colour with tonal richness such as scarlet wine, plum, and bottle green. Retaining an element of black through the pattern is best, as the waistcoat will be bordered by a black jacket and black bow tie. The result is an evening waistcoat that will add distinction whilst ensuring it remains part of the whole.  

This customer’s versatile tartan waistcoat is designed for wearing with both black tie and recently delivered tartan trews. Clan tartan, double breasted, hand sewn collar, bias cut with two welt pockets for loose change and tickets this dashing waistcoat will perfectly complement any Christmas invite.

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Of course, there are options that add a touch of individuality; jacket style, collar style and whether to select blacker-than-black midnight blue or keep with black cloth. As long as you follow a few ground rules it is easy to know if you have all the correct components to present yourself at your debonair best.

THE DINNER JACKET

• Perfect for all occasions is either midnight blue or black barathea wool.
• Single breasted or double breasted, both are equally authentic and correct. It’s all about skilful cutting and resulting silhouette.
• Silk lapels – peaked or shawl. The shawl gives a softer look and the classic peak lapel helps give a physique sharper angles.
• Silk jetted pockets are trimmed to match the lapel silk facing.
• Silk turned back cuffs lend an old world touch of elegance.

THE DINNER SUIT TROUSER

• Barathea wool or wool/mohair mix to match the dinner jacket.
• One decorative single stripe of decorative braid or satin on the outer leg seam (did you know? tailcoat requires two stripes).
• Plain finish hem, never a turn-up.
• Skilfully cut with pleats and a longer than normal rise. Never cuffed. 
• Brace cut trousers have vertical lines that appear more defined and elongated with elegant proportions. 
• Clan tartan trews are a stylish alternative. 

THE DRESS SHIRT

• Bibbed front, either pleated or cotton Marcella pique. With tab to secure to trouser waistband eliminating billowing or ride-up under your waistcoat/cummerbund.
• Collar style is semi-spread, soft and turned down.  
• Double cuff. If you have a bibbed front shirt, your cuffs should be made in matching pique. 

THE BOW TIE

• Black satin or ribbed (grosgrain) silk to match the silk trimming on your dinner jacket. 
• Hand-tie bow tie , always.

THE CUMMERBUND

• Black satin or ribbed (grosgrain) silk to match silk trimming on your dinner jacket.
• Always required to be worn with single-breasted jackets to smooth over the edge of the shirt bib and hide the trouser waist. 
• Cummerbund folds point upwards, to hold evening event tickets.

THE BRACES

• Black moiré braces, always buttoned.  

THE CUFFLINKS

• We favour less ostentatious designs, but its personal choice. If you don’t own antique double-sided cufflinks, may we suggest our black spotted harlequin cufflinks – add some interest without distracting from the whole. 

THE HANDKERCHIEF

• White with hand rolled edges. 

THE SHOES

• Black velvet slipper shoe, with or without embroidered monogram.
• Leather Oxford lace up shoe with highly polished toecap.

We’ve put our guide together to help steer you to having all the right components in place but please do just get in touch if you have any questions. The formal wear black tie ensemble is designed to be regimented. It’s all about sophistication, cut and fit. Worn correctly, the simplicity of the outfit will ensure you an elegant look.  

If you would like some help and advice in making new tailoring choices, you can book your bespoke tailoring appointment here. 

To update your black tie accessories you can shop the essentials here.

Most of all – enjoy. 

All the best, Peter.