Velvet collar, rich browns, warm Merino wool and small bespoke details; this customer designed himself a coat with a bit of seasonal swagger. We like how it is single breasted, fly-front with a striking shoulder line – an exercise in deft cutting. The richness of the brown herringbone cloth adds a sort of understated two-tone appearance on which the real horn buttons sit perfectly. Sharply cut, we made this coat slightly more figure hugging although the traditional shape has not been tampered with – a modern classic – to retain the power of the silhouette. 

more reading - herringbone, real horn buttons

Recently delivered to a customer in time for the challenging weather that is Britain’s winter, this bespoke Chesterfield overcoat is undoubtedly a timeless and practical investment. Classic and sophisticated, the charcoal grey cashmere herringbone is supremely versatile. Charcoal grey itself can look relaxed or formal and is the perfect neutral partner to compliment a wide colour range of scarves.  Cashmere has unequalled softness yet still delivers lightweight warmth whilst the herringbone pattern of fine zigzags is nicely understated. Four button, fly fronted with a hidden zip-secured scarf pocket and fully lined inside, this loyal customer designed himself a bespoke coat without any superfluous detail that simply oozes sophistication.

more reading – chesterfield, cashmere overcoat

What is it that makes our new wool ties so perfect: they’re versatile, elegant and understated plus the knitted tie has a softer look. Textured wool, ideal for winter, delivers richness to these solid blocks of colour. These ties, knitted in Scotland, are more informal and look great with chunky cardigans or sports jackets teamed with chinos or jeans. Perfect work-to-weekend versatility.

Shop the wool tie collection now http://tinyurl.com/ckdz8j6

Add warmth. Add colour. Add style. Wrap up in our uber-luxe soft and generously oversized winter scarves. Casually layer over jackets for instant warmth or create the perfect contrast for your bespoke overcoat. If you’re wearing a streamlined look, add interest and layers with a loose once-around knot, we use this tie method when we want to cultivate that ‘haven’t had time to finish the job right’ – because usually, we really haven’t had time.

Shop scarf collection now

We’ve just delivered this shooting three piece. Made from fabulous Johnstons of Elgin Estate Tweed that’s weatherproof, will keep out any chill and cope with briars and any rough treatment, its ready for the hills. Just look at the check matching! Cut and stitched with incredible accuracy and attention to detail, it’s no accident that they line up perfectly. Combined with a Tattersall lining selected by this very stylish and loyal customer, we think he has successfully combined mixing two checks with flair. The three button notch lapel jacket has bellow pockets and back pleats. 

For most men, the Chesterfield overcoat is the most formal coat they will ever own.  Long and tailored, cut to fit snugly over a suit or odd jacket and trouser, it is undoubtedly a timeless, practical and wearable investment that should last you a lifetime. 

We like to give the classic proportions a very subtle modern tweak and alongside elegant charcoal herringbone, we propose luxurious cloths such as cashmere and cashmere blends. Whilst the knee-length Covert coat is quite dressy and the patch-pocket Polo coat is quite casual, the Chesterfield is most definitely elegant. 

The Earl of Chesterfield, a fashionable Victorian aristocrat, is credited with inventing the Chesterfield coat (and also the Chesterfield button-back sofa). Its main features are slight shaping in the cut to look lean and modern, short lapels (either notch or peak) and ideally it should fall a couple of inches below the knee. Typically the Chesterfield is three button, fly fronted and single breasted although it doesn’t have to be, a double breasted cut looks equally as smart. Other variations that make this coat extremely versatile are heavier weight tweeds, golden tans in camelhair and a contrasting velvet collar. 

Cultivate a sense of ease and effortlessness by layering a Chesterfield over sports jackets and flannel trousers or with a few simple styling tricks set a formal tone to accompany business suits and evening wear. In classic grey or navy, an impeccably tailored Chesterfield overcoat just can’t be wrong. Simple elegance at its best. 

 

The common bond of all overcoat styles is one of functional need. The Polo overcoat with its overlapping fronts completely protects from chin to knees; it is efficient security against wet and cold. 

A derivative of the Paletot and the Ulster coat, the Polo’s distinctive features are that it is double breasted with wide lapels, has a pleat and half-belt in the back, it has raised seams, turn back cuffs and patch pockets that convey a less formal, more casual air. 

Worn by British polo players between matches in 1920’s and adopted by US style leaders in 1920’s and 1930’s, the polo coat is an enduring classic and still as relevant today. Typically, it is made in shades of golden tan as originally this coat was popular in Camelhair which, when made with the fine soft hairs of the pure undercoat of the camel, is soft and plush. Alternatively, a blend of merino wool and camel hair makes a cloth that is soft and durable and pure new wool allows for colour variations, e.g navy blue.

An overcoat wardrobe that is in harmony with personality and occasion may necessitate ownership of more than one style: casual, quite dressy and quite elegant.  The Covert should cover quite dressy and the Polo, quite casual. 

 

IMAGE - NOEL COWARD

 

Chesterfield, Polo, Crombie, British Warm or Covert…as we write, cloths are being selected and bespoke patterns cut for coat delivery before the inevitable cold snap. 

Overcoats have their origin in battle, sport and country pursuits. The overcoat has evolved, taking a variety of shapes. Some of them are still with us. A permanent theme is that an overcoat must offer both style and protection.

The Covert coat is a superbly smart, slim, knee-length coat universally associated with British style, it offers a brilliant fusion of country-wear and city-wear, equally appropriate in both environments. The name, covert, lies in the cloth from which it is made. Covert is a twill fabric in which combinations of two threads of different tones of the same colour are twisted together to form a marbled effect. Because the fabric is tightly spun wool and tightly woven it is warm, resists snags and durable. Pale, slightly mottled brown is typical or to break the mould, navy offers a smart alternative. 

Several distinctive features characterize the covert coat; single breasted, fly-fronted, knee length and four parallel rows of stitching on the cuff and on the bottom hem, known as ‘railroading’ or ‘tracking’.  The classic covert coat has two side pockets and a ticket pocket, on the right side with an interior game pocket, originally for hunting ammunition but ideal now for newspaper or tablet. 

Typically, a covert coat will have a contrasting velvet collar. Of great importance in the late 19th Century when men wore long hair that stained the collar, the velvet was simply renewed and the coat refreshed. It’s optional yet stylish and can easily be changed. 

The Covert Coat: A very British clean line style and an enduring classic. 

Made from pure Scottish Todd & Duncan cashmere, each of our 12 ply cardigans weighs in at more than one pound of some of the worlds finest cashmere. Only one machine is capable of knitting these iconic cashmere cardigans so you can be sure that you wont be bumping into too many of the same and it will be a privilege to wear one. 

Todd & Duncan is now the acknowledged leader in production of finest quality cashmere yarns for the world's most famous knitwear brands and is constantly refining and developing new colours to keep pace with changing fashion needs. The Kinross spinning mills on the picturesque shores of Loch Leven employ specialist skills in spinning high quality single ply cashmere yarn. The most important factor in the quality of cashmere is the length and fineness of the fibres. Garments made with long and thin fibres, as this one is, pill less and maintain their shape.

Curiously, the softness of a cashmere garment does not always guarantee quality as inferior cashmere of short length fibres can make a garment ‘fluffy’ but are likely to pill and wear out sooner. All our sweaters and cardigans are knitted using only the longest, finest woollen spun yarns made in Scotland, giving a less fluffy appearance and a significantly higher quality garment. Once you have worn cashmere of this quality, other yarns become less desirable. With care, investing in a superior quality cashmere sweater will reward you for a long time. 

 

The genius of the Scottish cashmere knitted shawl-collar cardigan is its versatility. In casual or semi-formal business situations the look is style, comfort and subtle luxury. Building your fall/winter wardrobe we suggest focusing on key pieces that can be cross-purpose. This iconic cashmere cardigan can be worm with both suit trousers and more casual weekend trousers. Sophisticated enough for the office layered over a Sea Island white shirt or to keep you warm in mid-season chills accessorized with a woven silk scarf, this cardigan will look elegant and appropriate.

READ MORE