Suit in the making
Grey Nailhead: subtle surface interest and depth without being distracting. Worn with a white shirt, this suit will be perfect for the simple and elegant ‘only two colours’ style approach. A brilliant companion, it pretty much equals formality, functionality and flexibility, in just the right measures.
Recently commissioned by a loyal repeat customer, his pattern for a single-breasted jacket is pretty much cemented. The balance works well, the sleeves have been adjusted to just the right pitch and length, and small tweaks like the height of the waist button have been ironed out.
At this fitting stage of the bespoke suit process, inserting the canvas, tapes and paddings of the interlining is a delicate, exacting procedure; ensuring no adverse reaction between suit cloth and interlinings is in itself complicated.
The hand sewn body canvas is available in numerous grades, selected by assessing the weight of the cloth together with the preferred finished feel and appearance. A small pad is added to lend shape to the shoulders and help define and smooth the shoulder-line, a generous inlay is allowed and long white baste stitches hold everything together.
The trick of ordering bespoke tailoring ahead of when you actually wish to wear it is a fine art, one this customer has mastered. This is a fine spring suit – well, it will be!
e: bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk
