Suit fabrics can be made from woollen or worsted spun cloths or both combined. In an earlier post, The Woollen and the Worsted, our friend Carole from Harrisons of Edinburgh perfectly described the difference between the two; flat looking woollen cloths without any obvious twill and worsted spun cloths from longer, finer hairs that retain some visible signs of the twill. Neither is better than the other, but one will be more appropriate to your tastes or requirements. There are some classic suiting cloths that form the backbone of any tailored wardrobe to be always appropriate and offer unrivalled flexibility. Combine these with continual improvements in design and manufacture that deliver new cloths of unrivaled lightness, suppleness and performance, and you have more options than ever. Make your selections carefully, considering weight of cloth, pattern and styling.
TEXTURE: A plain suit with texture through the weave can look superbly understated. Different weaves will create different effects, for example a twill weave will emphasise the cut of your tailoring with a slight sheen. Barathea weave on the other hand, from which dinner jackets are typically cut, will appear matt as the weave blocks any light. Experimenting with different weaves can bring a plain suit to life. Gabardine, with its interesting surface texture of single-diagonal lines on the face of the cloth will also shed creases more readily. The slight ‘uptwist’ to the yarn provides enhanced performance to the cloth, which will retain its shape over longer periods. Or you may prefer
Herringbone? It has a distinctive zigzag effect also known as the ‘chevron’. Durable, elegant and an all year round favourite.
STRIPES: Wide, narrow, bold or subtle. Single, double or triple. The variety and scale of suiting stripes is infinite. The
striped suit can make a bold statement when skillfully cut and tailored with stripes positioned perfectly for maximum effect. The vertical stripes elongate any physique, which explains its allure. Pin stripe cloth has a fine stripe, though not continuous, made up of pinhead-sized dots the width of a pin scratch. Chalk stripe is a series of threads resembling a line drawn by a tailor’s chalk, which on flannel can have a naturally ‘fuzzy’ effect due to the characteristics of flannel itself. Rope stripes have a diagonal, or spiral, stripe effect and are broader than a pinstripe so have more impact.
CHECKS: Enduringly stylish is the
Glen Urquhart check - a large black and white check with various colour overchecks. There is a sophistication in the subtle dark pattern that from a distance has a modest appearance yet up close has noteworthy detail of colour, pattern and texture. Check cloths, when expertly cut, can flatter almost any physique. The horizontal and vertical lines pose challenges and complexity to match them but the extra effort is worth it if you have the personality to carry the pattern.
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