Make mine a DB
Prince Charles may be a fan, but are you? Celebrity endorsements don’t get much greater than HRH and it seems that a growing number of clients too are appreciating the elegance of the double-breasted jacket.
Bespoke is all about the fit of course, rather than any superfluous details. Whilst being respectful to bespoke tailoring traditions, we think the most modern and flattering DB has a slim cut and fit, just skimming the body. As always, the cut is very important and like good car design its success lies in structure and lines.
More versatile than you may realize and inherently formal, the trick is, which DB is for you?
Almost anyone can wear a double-breasted jacket when it’s expertly cut. Taller men can wear a six-button style elegantly, that on a shorter figure can give too much weight to the top half. If six buttons overwhelms you, which it will on a shorter torso, then select a four-button jacket. A common misconception is that more portly gentlemen shouldn’t wear double-breasted jackets when in fact; it can have slimming and lengthening effect. We would suggest trying a 6x2 or a 4x2 button configuration. We wouldn't recommend a 4x1 as this can magnify any weight around the midsection.
What do we mean by 6x2 or 4x2? A traditional double-breasted style has two vertical rows of buttons, one column of buttons is decorative and the other is functional. 6x2 refers to a total of six visible buttons when two buttons close the jacket. Benefits: First, plenty of lines and buttons can have a slimming effect by distracting from the girth within. Second, by closing only the bottom button, you can achieve a longer line through the lapel, cutting diagonally across the body making shorter men appear taller. Third, taller men can benefit by closing only the middle button to break up the length of the body.
Tailored in a solid flannel, soft tweed or solid wool hopsack it’s the ultimate suit jacket for just about any occasion. Brilliantly versatile, the double-breasted jacket can be both On and Off-Duty with either formal trousers or weekend jeans.
Curiously, in the studio this week we’ve been discussing the ‘modern’ DB and then agreed that the finest example of a well-cut, perfectly fit and timelessly elegant DB suit we have seen for a long time is this image of Noel Coward. Other past style icons who have shown the DB off to glamorous effect are Cary Grant, the Duke of Windsor and Gary Cooper; all different shapes, heights and sizes.
Formal? – Yes. Elegant? – Yes. More versatile than you may think? – Yes. Are you tempted?
To order your tailoring, please contact:
+44 (0)131 225 4318
