For most men, the Chesterfield overcoat is the most formal coat they will ever own.  Long and tailored, cut to fit snugly over a suit or odd jacket and trouser, it is undoubtedly a timeless, practical and wearable investment that should last you a lifetime. 

We like to give the classic proportions a very subtle modern tweak and alongside elegant charcoal herringbone, we propose luxurious cloths such as cashmere and cashmere blends. Whilst the knee-length Covert coat is quite dressy and the patch-pocket Polo coat is quite casual, the Chesterfield is most definitely elegant. 

The Earl of Chesterfield, a fashionable Victorian aristocrat, is credited with inventing the Chesterfield coat (and also the Chesterfield button-back sofa). Its main features are slight shaping in the cut to look lean and modern, short lapels (either notch or peak) and ideally it should fall a couple of inches below the knee. Typically the Chesterfield is three button, fly fronted and single breasted although it doesn’t have to be, a double breasted cut looks equally as smart. Other variations that make this coat extremely versatile are heavier weight tweeds, golden tans in camelhair and a contrasting velvet collar. 

Cultivate a sense of ease and effortlessness by layering a Chesterfield over sports jackets and flannel trousers or with a few simple styling tricks set a formal tone to accompany business suits and evening wear. In classic grey or navy, an impeccably tailored Chesterfield overcoat just can’t be wrong. Simple elegance at its best. 

 

The common bond of all overcoat styles is one of functional need. The Polo overcoat with its overlapping fronts completely protects from chin to knees; it is efficient security against wet and cold. 

A derivative of the Paletot and the Ulster coat, the Polo’s distinctive features are that it is double breasted with wide lapels, has a pleat and half-belt in the back, it has raised seams, turn back cuffs and patch pockets that convey a less formal, more casual air. 

Worn by British polo players between matches in 1920’s and adopted by US style leaders in 1920’s and 1930’s, the polo coat is an enduring classic and still as relevant today. Typically, it is made in shades of golden tan as originally this coat was popular in Camelhair which, when made with the fine soft hairs of the pure undercoat of the camel, is soft and plush. Alternatively, a blend of merino wool and camel hair makes a cloth that is soft and durable and pure new wool allows for colour variations, e.g navy blue.

An overcoat wardrobe that is in harmony with personality and occasion may necessitate ownership of more than one style: casual, quite dressy and quite elegant.  The Covert should cover quite dressy and the Polo, quite casual. 

 

IMAGE - NOEL COWARD

 

Chesterfield, Polo, Crombie, British Warm or Covert…as we write, cloths are being selected and bespoke patterns cut for coat delivery before the inevitable cold snap. 

Overcoats have their origin in battle, sport and country pursuits. The overcoat has evolved, taking a variety of shapes. Some of them are still with us. A permanent theme is that an overcoat must offer both style and protection.

The Covert coat is a superbly smart, slim, knee-length coat universally associated with British style, it offers a brilliant fusion of country-wear and city-wear, equally appropriate in both environments. The name, covert, lies in the cloth from which it is made. Covert is a twill fabric in which combinations of two threads of different tones of the same colour are twisted together to form a marbled effect. Because the fabric is tightly spun wool and tightly woven it is warm, resists snags and durable. Pale, slightly mottled brown is typical or to break the mould, navy offers a smart alternative. 

Several distinctive features characterize the covert coat; single breasted, fly-fronted, knee length and four parallel rows of stitching on the cuff and on the bottom hem, known as ‘railroading’ or ‘tracking’.  The classic covert coat has two side pockets and a ticket pocket, on the right side with an interior game pocket, originally for hunting ammunition but ideal now for newspaper or tablet. 

Typically, a covert coat will have a contrasting velvet collar. Of great importance in the late 19th Century when men wore long hair that stained the collar, the velvet was simply renewed and the coat refreshed. It’s optional yet stylish and can easily be changed. 

The Covert Coat: A very British clean line style and an enduring classic. 

With Thanks to Robb Report September 2011 

Made from pure Scottish Todd & Duncan cashmere, each of our 12 ply cardigans weighs in at more than one pound of some of the worlds finest cashmere. Only one machine is capable of knitting these iconic cashmere cardigans so you can be sure that you wont be bumping into too many of the same and it will be a privilege to wear one. 

Todd & Duncan is now the acknowledged leader in production of finest quality cashmere yarns for the world's most famous knitwear brands and is constantly refining and developing new colours to keep pace with changing fashion needs. The Kinross spinning mills on the picturesque shores of Loch Leven employ specialist skills in spinning high quality single ply cashmere yarn. The most important factor in the quality of cashmere is the length and fineness of the fibres. Garments made with long and thin fibres, as this one is, pill less and maintain their shape.

Curiously, the softness of a cashmere garment does not always guarantee quality as inferior cashmere of short length fibres can make a garment ‘fluffy’ but are likely to pill and wear out sooner. All our sweaters and cardigans are knitted using only the longest, finest woollen spun yarns made in Scotland, giving a less fluffy appearance and a significantly higher quality garment. Once you have worn cashmere of this quality, other yarns become less desirable. With care, investing in a superior quality cashmere sweater will reward you for a long time. 

 

The genius of the Scottish cashmere knitted shawl-collar cardigan is its versatility. In casual or semi-formal business situations the look is style, comfort and subtle luxury. Building your fall/winter wardrobe we suggest focusing on key pieces that can be cross-purpose. This iconic cashmere cardigan can be worm with both suit trousers and more casual weekend trousers. Sophisticated enough for the office layered over a Sea Island white shirt or to keep you warm in mid-season chills accessorized with a woven silk scarf, this cardigan will look elegant and appropriate.

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NAVY HERRINGBONE – Traditional, classic and extremely stylish. Herringbone cloth made from superior worsted wool will keep its shape and stand the test of time. Herringbone describes the distinctive v-shaped weaving pattern created by alternating the diagonal pattern in the cloth producing a zigzag effect sometimes known as the ‘chevron’. It is durable, elegant and can be an all year round favourite.