peter johnston


Make mine a DB

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Prince Charles may be a fan, but are you? Celebrity endorsements don’t get much greater than HRH and it seems that a growing number of clients too are appreciating the elegance of the double-breasted jacket. 

Bespoke is all about the fit of course, rather than any superfluous details. Whilst being respectful to bespoke tailoring traditions, we think the most modern and flattering DB has a slim cut and fit, just skimming the body. As always, the cut is very important and like good car design its success lies in structure and lines. 

More versatile than you may realize and inherently formal, the trick is, which DB is for you?

Almost anyone can wear a double-breasted jacket when it’s expertly cut. Taller men can wear a six-button style elegantly, that on a shorter figure can give too much weight to the top half. If six buttons overwhelms you, which it will on a shorter torso, then select a four-button jacket. A common misconception is that more portly gentlemen shouldn’t wear double-breasted jackets when in fact; it can have slimming and lengthening effect. We would suggest trying a 6x2 or a 4x2 button configuration. We wouldn't recommend a 4x1 as this can magnify any weight around the midsection.

What do we mean by 6x2 or 4x2? A traditional double-breasted style has two vertical rows of buttons, one column of buttons is decorative and the other is functional. 6x2 refers to a total of six visible buttons when two buttons close the jacket. Benefits: First, plenty of lines and buttons can have a slimming effect by distracting from the girth within. Second, by closing only the bottom button, you can achieve a longer line through the lapel, cutting diagonally across the body making shorter men appear taller. Third, taller men can benefit by closing only the middle button to break up the length of the body. 

Tailored in a solid flannel, soft tweed or solid wool hopsack it’s the ultimate suit jacket for just about any occasion. Brilliantly versatile, the double-breasted jacket can be both On and Off-Duty with either formal trousers or weekend jeans.

Curiously, in the studio this week we’ve been discussing the ‘modern’ DB and then agreed that the finest example of a well-cut, perfectly fit and timelessly elegant DB suit we have seen for a long time is this image of Noel Coward.  Other past style icons who have shown the DB off to glamorous effect are Cary Grant, the Duke of Windsor and Gary Cooper; all different shapes, heights and sizes.

Formal? – Yes. Elegant? – Yes. More versatile than you may think? – Yes. Are you tempted?

 

To order your tailoring, please contact:

bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk

+44 (0)131 225 4318

 

 

Perfect Patterns

Perfectpatterns

Suit fabrics can be made from woollen or worsted spun cloths or both combined. In an earlier post, The Woollen and the Worsted, our friend Carole from Harrisons of Edinburgh perfectly described the difference between the two; flat looking woollen cloths without any obvious twill and worsted spun cloths from longer, finer hairs that retain some visible signs of the twill. Neither is better than the other, but one will be more appropriate to your tastes or requirements. There are some classic suiting cloths that form the backbone of any tailored wardrobe to be always appropriate and offer unrivalled flexibility. Combine these with continual improvements in design and manufacture that deliver new cloths of unrivaled lightness, suppleness and performance, and you have more options than ever. Make your selections carefully, considering weight of cloth, pattern and styling. 

TEXTURE: A plain suit with texture through the weave can look superbly understated. Different weaves will create different effects, for example a twill weave will emphasise the cut of your tailoring with a slight sheen. Barathea weave on the other hand, from which dinner jackets are typically cut, will appear matt as the weave blocks any light. Experimenting with different weaves can bring a plain suit to life. Gabardine, with its interesting surface texture of single-diagonal lines on the face of the cloth will also shed creases more readily.  The slight ‘uptwist’ to the yarn provides enhanced performance to the cloth, which will retain its shape over longer periods. Or you may prefer Herringbone? It has a distinctive zigzag effect also known as the ‘chevron’. Durable, elegant and an all year round favourite. 

STRIPES: Wide, narrow, bold or subtle. Single, double or triple. The variety and scale of suiting stripes is infinite. The striped suit can make a bold statement when skillfully cut and tailored with stripes positioned perfectly for maximum effect. The vertical stripes elongate any physique, which explains its allure. Pin stripe cloth has a fine stripe, though not continuous, made up of pinhead-sized dots the width of a pin scratch. Chalk stripe is a series of threads resembling a line drawn by a tailor’s chalk, which on flannel can have a naturally ‘fuzzy’ effect due to the characteristics of flannel itself. Rope stripes have a diagonal, or spiral, stripe effect and are broader than a pinstripe so have more impact.

CHECKS: Enduringly stylish is the Glen Urquhart check - a large black and white check with various colour overchecks. There is a sophistication in the subtle dark pattern that from a distance has a modest appearance yet up close has noteworthy detail of colour, pattern and texture. Check cloths, when expertly cut, can flatter almost any physique. The horizontal and vertical lines pose challenges and complexity to match them but the extra effort is worth it if you have the personality to carry the pattern. 

For more information or to order, please contact:
+44 (0)131 225 4318

 

Cut a Dash

Cutting

When did you last think someone look genuinely good in the clothes he was wearing? Whatever your age, but especially if you are in the post-forty bracket (join the club), there are some basic rules to follow, one of which is our favourite mantra – keep it simple. Cut down on fuss, buy better quality and appreciate good tailoring. Well-cut and perfectly fitted suits can be scarce, so if you wear one, you will stand out for all the right reasons. 

Few people really realise what goes into cutting their tailoring. It is complicated, precise and an art form that takes many years of training to learn and craft. A little insight can go a long way so here are a few facts.

The art of cutting is in pattern drafting, taking the cloth and using skilled cutting techniques to hand cut the cloth to the right shape. The focus is on accuracy but it is a skilled cutter who makes you a pattern to match your own body measurements and most important – your figuration. Totally personal to you is how you stand, for example do your shoulders slope or do you have prominent calves? An expert cutter and tailor can disguise limitations and delight by emphasising other characteristics. 

A precise and complicated process, it must be checked and checked again. To have some degree of accuracy, a cutter must be allowed time. It is an art, so a certain amount of flair should be allowed-for as a skilled cutter has an ‘eye’ for what is required creatively. 

It can take up to 200 separate pieces of cloth to make a suit and it can be 1 to 2 years before a trainee cutter is permitted to cut any cloth. On average, it takes 10 years before a cutter becomes a master cutter.

A well-cut touch of dignified classic restraint never looked so good. 

For more information or to order please contact:

+44 (0)131 225 4318 

 

Suit in the making

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Grey Nailhead: subtle surface interest and depth without being distracting. Worn with a white shirt, this suit will be perfect for the simple and elegant ‘only two colours’ style approach. A brilliant companion, it pretty much equals formality, functionality and flexibility, in just the right measures.

Recently commissioned by a loyal repeat customer, his pattern for a single-breasted jacket is pretty much cemented. The balance works well, the sleeves have been adjusted to just the right pitch and length, and small tweaks like the height of the waist button have been ironed out.

At this fitting stage of the bespoke suit process, inserting the canvas, tapes and paddings of the interlining is a delicate, exacting procedure; ensuring no adverse reaction between suit cloth and interlinings is in itself complicated.

The hand sewn body canvas is available in numerous grades, selected by assessing the weight of the cloth together with the preferred finished feel and appearance. A small pad is added to lend shape to the shoulders and help define and smooth the shoulder-line, a generous inlay is allowed and long white baste stitches hold everything together. 

The trick of ordering bespoke tailoring ahead of when you actually wish to wear it is a fine art, one this customer has mastered. This is a fine spring suit – well, it will be! 

 

e: bespoke@peter-johnston.co.uk

 

Two Colours:Effortless

Connery_bond_navy_suit_white_shirt

Are you thinking about sunnier skies? Me too.  Happily, the big Easter get-away is just around the corner and warmer spring days are not that far away either. Anyone who has ever sweltered through a warm day in a suffocating heavier weight suit jacket knows that a little planning ahead goes a long way to achieving the luxurious style of a modern global traveller.

In the heat, the cool business option is often a suit, providing the suit is made from light-gauge, breathable fabrics such as merino wool, tropical wool, mohair, linen or poplin. The ideal thread count for spring summer cloth is 130-140; the ideal weight 240-280g. Get the weight and the colour right, and despite the heat, spring suits can be both elegant and practical.

Classic appeal is always elegant and refined, which is why, whatever the season, we champion the navy or grey suit. A simple two colour outfit, navy and white or grey and white, is a clean, mature and well put together look without any unnecessary distractions. For a fresh spring look, try replacing dark charcoal with a lighter grey spring-appropriate fabric and select a lightweight navy herringbone for subtle interest by way of texture. Fully lined, half lined or unlined, in the right fabric, this suit jacket can be extremely versatile. 

More reading - 

Navy Herringbone – The Suit Wardrobe,   The Navy Suit,   Why Summer Prep Starts Now

 

 

The Perfect Accessory for Burns Supper

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I got to thinking…just as the best accessories perfectly complement a bespoke suit, what is the perfect whisky to enhance the flavour of Burns Night Haggis? 

So, I turned for advise to our good friend, fellow Scot Annabel Kohler at The Macallan. The whisky connoisseurs amongst us may already know how to bring out the flavours of each Burns Supper course, for the rest of us, don't miss this excellent guide written by Annabel exclusively for Peter Johnston...

 

A Single Malt Burns Supper

It’s the time of year when Scots around the world celebrate Scotland’s favourite Bard Robert Burns.  It is a time for us to celebrate our proud heritage and friendships.  Traditions are always nice, but when it comes to whisky it shouldn’t just be about tradition, but about what you like, what works with the food of choice and of course what befits the moment and the celebration.  So open your drinks cabinet and for this special day select some of your finest whiskies and rather than wine offer whiskies with your dinner.  The traditional menu of Scotch Broth, Haggis, Neeps and Tatties and Scotch Trifle is a rich affair, so choose rich whiskies that will not fight with strong flavours, but compliment them.  Don’t be afraid to create whisky cocktails and use ice in your dram.  You should enjoy your whisky as you like it.  So to kick off your celebrations why not offer your guests a warming Highland Fling cocktail: 

 

 2 shots Macallan Fine Oak 10 Years Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky

1 tea spoon Scottish heather honey

5 mint leaves

Warm the honey and put it into a short glass, add one shot of Macallan Fine Oak and stir until honey is dissolved, half fill the glass with crushed or cracked ice. Add the second shot of Macallan Fine Oak and the mint leaves, stir for 15 seconds. Fill the glass to the top with crushed or cracked ice and garnish with mint sprig.

 

Especially for the ladies it would be nice to offer the whisky in tasting glasses rather than heavy tumblers.  They will also unfold each whisky’s aroma to its best advantage.

With the starter of Scotch Broth you can choose a lighter whisky.  The Macallan Fine Oak 15 years old offers a beautiful balance of rich typical Sherry Oak flavours and a lighter citrusy flavour.  It will work well with the barley and lighter vegetable flavours of the broth.  

To toast the haggis asks for a malt that is not only robust in flavour but has real stature so no better than a Macallan Sherry Oak 18 years old.  The rich flavours of spice, chocolate and orange will withstand the spice and weight of the haggis and add a sweet dimension that will be quite a surprise to your palate.  

What to have with the sweet delight of a trifle dessert?  The sweetness of custard and fruit can make it quite challenging to match a good whisky.  So where you may normally choose a Muscat or Tokay why not try a Macallan Fine Oak 21 years old?  It is intense and rich with hints of vanilla and orange and even a slight taste of peat.

To round off a perfect meal calls for the perfect whisky.  A whisky that is close to perfection is the Macallan in Lalique 60 years old.  It unfolds in so many directions as you drink it.  Bold red fruit with a heavy flavour of oak, but also an intense sweetness make this a second dessert, more like a liqueur.  

Put on some traditional Scottish music or enjoy the tunes of Franz Ferdinand – the only rule is it must be Scottish!

Sláinte!

 

 

 

Bespoke Velvet Smoking Jacket

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A beautifully tailored velvet smoking jacket is the perfect alternative to the DJ. Paired with conventional dinner trousers or trews and fine shirt, a bespoke smoking jacket is both comfortable and undeniably elegant.

The concept of an elegant jacket for evening entertaining has never been lost on the purveyors of good quality clothing and far from making rare appearances for a special occasions, the smoking jacket is embraced as an alternative type of formalwear that imparts at-ease stylishness. 

Cut in classic dinner jacket styling, either single-breasted with shawl lapels and one-button closure, or double-breasted with one-, two- or three-button closure is traditional. Yet, as one would expect, a good bespoke smoking jacket will speak of your own personal style and taste. Shawl collar or peak lapels? Are they velvet or silk? The coat length? Braided loop closing? Lined in which colour and design?

Silk velvet is our cloth recommendation for bespoke smoking jackets; we have availability of some extraordinarily rich colours, notably deep midnight blue, and plush black.  Silk enhances the colour and comfort of velvet cloth by adding depth, lustre and softness.

Its origins lie in the noble tradition of gentlemen exchanging their jackets for one used exclusively for smoking, thus protecting their other clothes from residual tobacco odors. Today, the smoking jacket is the dependable choice for those wanting an alternative, subtly different evening jacket yet still with classic luxurious style.

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Tartan twist on black tie tradition

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Want to cut a dash amongst the purists of black tie attire?  For some men the classic formula of black cummerbund or waistcoat with a dinner jacket hits just the right note of style and formality. For others, the simplicity and elegance of the black-and-white starkness offers scope for stylish individuality. 

The skill lies in adding a single flourish of pattern or highlight colour, to enrich the already dramatic high-contrast outfit. For the most assured Scots dressers amongst us, adding a tartan waistcoat is a stylish way to embrace a personal insignia. If you are intending to experiment with this idea, we suggest applying a simple rule of introducing colour with tonal richness such as scarlet wine, plum, and bottle green. Retaining an element of black through the pattern is best, as the waistcoat will be bordered by a black jacket and black bow tie. The result is an evening waistcoat that will add distinction whilst ensuring it remains part of the whole.  

This customer’s versatile tartan waistcoat is designed for wearing with both black tie and recently delivered tartan trews. Clan tartan, double breasted, hand sewn collar, bias cut with two welt pockets for loose change and tickets this dashing waistcoat will perfectly complement any Christmas invite.

Black Tie - read more

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